Spring Lake's Environment

Our Environmental Bylaws:

To read these bylaws, click the button to go to the Bylaws Page.

• Bylaw #399 - Restricted Use of Fertilizers, Herbicides and Pesticides Bylaw
• Bylaw #398 - Amendment to Municipal Development Plan Bylaw #390

Water Wells That Last - A Guide for Private Well Owners in Alberta
Brought to you by the EAC:

Groundwater is a priceless resource lying beneath most of Alberta’s land surface. About 90 percent of rural Albertans rely on groundwater for a household water supply. Reliance on groundwater continues to increase in Alberta because of the steady rise in population and additional requirements for agricultural, industrial, municipal and domestic uses. Because it is a “hidden” resource, groundwater is vulnerable to overuse and water quality degradation.

Private water well owners are responsible for managing and maintaining their water wells. This publication provides information about how to properly manage private water wells which is key to protecting groundwater supplies.

The authors gratefully acknowledge the contributors of this current and previous editions of this publication representing Alberta Agriculture and Forestry, Alberta Environment and Parks, Agriculture and AgriFood Canada, and the Alberta Water Well Drilling Association. We also acknowledge the following sources of information used in the preparation of this publication: Driscoll, F.G., Groundwater & Wells, and Mance, E., A Landowner’s Guide to Water Well Management.

**Photographs used in this publication were provided by Government of Alberta staff unless otherwise noted.

Environmental Public Health - Water Sample Bottle Pick-up and Drop-off
Provided by: Alberta Health Services - Provincial Health Services

Stan Woloshyn Building
Telephone: 1-833-476-4743 (Intake)
205 Diamond Avenue , Spruce Grove, Alberta T7X 3A8
 

Focus On Composting
For more information from Spring Lake's Environmental Advisory Committee, go to the EAC webpages.

Last update: April, 2006.

Focus On Composting is published by Alberta Environment and Sustainable Resource Development under Crown Copyright. This material may be freely copied for educational use provided the source is acknowledged.

For more information or to order additional copies, please contact:
Alberta ESRD - Information Centre
Main Floor, Great West Life
9920-108 St NW,
Edmonton AB T5K 2M4

Are You Ruining The Lakes With Lawn Fertilizer?

Lawn fertilizer may be useful to make your lawn green and healthy, but what impact does it have on the fish and fowl that live in the lakes near us?  Does fertilizing my lawn affect the health of lakes and streams near me? Is there a way to have a healthy green lawn without affecting the lake health?

What Does Fertilizer Do To A Lake?
Fertilizers often affect the ecosystem in the lake negatively.  Phosphorus runoff is the biggest issue.  This chemical, directly and indirectly, harms fish.
          • The smell of fertilizer overpowers the other scents in the water. Fish can no longer use their sense of smell as a homing device because of the masking effect of grass fertilizer.
          • It harms organisms that serve as food for fish.
          • It can make it more difficult for fish to reproduce.  Studies have shown that chemicals negatively impact salmon reproduction and their ability to avoid predators.
          • Phosphorus in fertilizers stimulate growth; it’s generally used to stimulate growth in new lawns. Phosphorus in water has the same effect; it encourages algae growth. Algae releases toxins that are harmful to fish if released in large doses – which usually happens during algae blooms.
          • Algae require oxygen; algae explosions may deprive the water of oxygen fish need for survival.

What Can I Do To Minimize Damage?
You can take steps to minimize your impact on waterways.Clean the area around the lawn after you’ve mowed or fertilized. The fertilizer and grass clippings on the driveway, sidewalk, and on the road washes into the lake via the stormwater.

1. If your property is on the lake, create a buffer zone between the water and the lawn. It’s a 6-8-foot area where you don’t fertilize or mow the lawn. Not only will this help with chemical pollutants, but it’ll also keep geese at bay too.
   Without a buffer zone, geese use the yard as their feeding ground, landing pad, and litter box.  By allowing habitat plants to grow in the buffer zone, geese won’t defile the lake AND provide a sponge for lawn fertilizer nutrients.

2. Only fertilize when the lawn needs it. The grass absorbs the nutrients, and there’s no excess to pollute the lake.

3. Fertilizer at the right time. Too much nitrogen too early in the growing season leads to a shallow root system that cannot hold the nutrients; nutrients are easily washed away.

4. Use the right N-P-K ratio of fertilizer. An established lawn seldom needs phosphorus except in Fall or if the soil lacks the nutrient. Apply fertilizers with little or no phosphorus content. New grass seedlings need phosphorus; avoid overfertilizing to prevent pollution.

5. Test the soil to see what it lacks before fertilizing. The earth may have enough nutrients and lawn fertilizer may not be necessary.

Do All Lawn Fertilizers Hurt Waterways?

TOO MUCH FERTILIZER WILL HURT A LAKE.  
Organic fertilizers are slow-releasing fertilizers made from natural ingredients. Grass and plants absorb and utilize nutrients better when released slowly. It’s easier to overfertilize with a synthetic fertilizer than a slow-releasing fertilizer.

The N-P-K ratios on fertilizer bags vary. It’s generally safer to use fertilizers that contain low or zero phosphorus (P). Synthetic fertilizers high in phosphorus may hurt the waterways if the plants don’t completely absorb the phosphorus. Nitrogen is water soluble. Excess nitrogen seeps into the groundwater that flows eventually into the waterways. Slow releasing fertilizers will release nitrogen over time stimulating leaf growth.

Apply lawn fertilizer when the lawn needs it and, in the ratio, required. We tend to overfertilize our yards because of the desire to have a lush, green natural carpet to walk on. This really isn’t how it works in nature. Natural fertilizers could be the safer option when living close to a waterway.

Let your grass grow longer.  Keeping grass at a higher length will help to reduce the need for watering and fertilizer.  Use the best lawn mower you can for your yard.  Reel mowers do less damage to your grass than traditional or zero turn mowers.

Website Source: Backyard Workshop

Spring Lake Biophysical Assessment

This Professional Report was prepared by CPP Environmental. The quality of the information, conclusions, and any estimates are based on information available at the time of the preparation of the report.

SunHills Solar Project Newsletter
January 23, 2023

TransAlta Corporation (“TransAlta”) is proposing to construct the 130-megawatt (MW) SunHills Solar Project (“SunHills” or “the Project”), located over one kilometer from the south side of Wabamun Lake, on lands included within the Highvale Mine site in Parkland County. The mine closed in 2021 and is currently being reclaimed. Once the Project is operational, it is expected to generate approximately 247 gigawatt hours of electricity in the first year.

Check out TransAlta's website by clicking HERE.

Read the FULL TransAlta Newsletter by clicking the link below:

Eutrophication (Nutrient Pollution)
Brought to you by the EAC:

Did you know?
Spring Lake is known as a ‘seepage lake’ and lakes such as ours are typical in this area. These bodies of water have no surface water inflows or outflows. Most water comes from groundwater flow; springs in our case. Spring Lake, like many lakes in Alberta, is what is called a ‘eutrophic lake’. Lakes become eutrophic in a natural process as the lake ages and becomes more productive. This normally takes thousands of years to occur. We as humans, through our various cultural activities have greatly accelerated the eutrophication process in thousands of lakes around the world.

Read the PDF attached for the complete article on Eutrophication in Spring Lake.

Consequences of NOT Cleaning Up Dog Waste

• Beyond the mess and the smell, it’s potentially infectious to other animals and to humans.
• Waste left to wash into the soil, whether in a neighbourhood, trail or dog park, can spread life threatening parasites, not to other dogs and cats, but also to wild animals and to people.
• Signs that remind you to pick up after your pet are not just trying to keep public spaces clean; they’re urging you to help safeguard your community’s health.
• Common dog waste parasites include hookworms, roundworms, coccidia and whipworms. Hookworms and roundworms can thrive in a variety of species, including humans.
• Beyond parasites, unattended droppings may also be contaminated with viruses that can create life-threatening disease in other animals, domesticated and wild.

Key points to remember to avoid parasites and minimize the impact on our ecosystem:

• Pick waste up and safely throw it out regardless of where your pet poops. Sanitize your hands afterwards.
• Wash your hands before eating or touching your face while gardening or working in the yard.
• Avoid rinsing poop into the soil. Using rain or a garden hose only removes the visible mess, not the microscopic issues.
• Make sure sandboxes are covered when not in use.
• Keep your pets on intestinal de-worming schedules.
• Have your vet test your pet’s waste for intestinal parasites.

Focus on Composting

How does composting work?
Composting works when optimal conditions necessary are present to speed up the natural decomposition of organic matter. Decomposition happens when decomposer organisms, including bacteria, fungi, and others feed on the carbon and nitrogen in the organic material and then produce a humus-like excrement. But the decomposer organisms don’t do it all alone. Other organisms that help the decomposition process include protozoa, mites, beetles, earthworms and more. All of these organisms are found naturally in soil. Some prey on the microorganisms, while others decompose the food waste directly. In addition to needing sources of carbon and nitrogen, the organisms also require oxygen and water to live.

When the decomposer organisms have optimal living conditions (correct food ratio, water, oxygen, and temperature) they are able to decompose the organic material more efficiently, speeding up the decomposition process. This may sound very complex, but Marjorie Lamb, in her book Two Minutes for a Greener Planet, sums up composting as: “Mix organic materials in a pile with some dirt. Keep moist. Turn occasionally.”

How do I Compost?
1. Feed your Bin:
Mix Browns and Greens. To compost effectively, a good mix of “browns” and “greens” is needed. Materials high in carbon are known as “browns” and those high in nitrogen are “greens.” Both types of materials are needed to create an efficient compost process. As a general rule, you can add materials to the pile in a ratio of one part ‘brown’ material to one part ‘green’ material. Fresh grass clippings are an example of a green material with a high nitrogen content. Dead leaves, and even well-dried grass clippings, are a good example of a brown material with a high carbon content. The concept of browns and greens is also useful in solving problems with a compost pile. 

What Should I Feed My Compost?
Greens (source of nitrogen) Browns (source of carbon) Fruit and vegetable materials Chopped yard waste Chopped vegetable stems Straw Houseplants Stale bread or cereal Coffee grounds and filters Cardboard Tea and tea bags Dried leaves Grass clippings Sawdust (not pine or cedar) Hair Paper (black and white, shredded) Other materials - Crushed eggshells (source of calcium)

• If starting out, add stale bread or cereal in small quantities until you have some experience monitoring your compost pile.
• Chopping material into smaller pieces creates more surface area and is recommended if you want to speed up the composting process. If you are not concerned about time, then chopping is not necessary.

What Should I NOT Feed My Compost?
Do not add materials that will take a long time to decompose, will attract pests or that may contaminate your finished compost.

• Meat, bones, fish scraps – they can attract dogs, cats, rodents and insects, and decompose slowly.
• Oily, fatty materials, cheese and dairy products – oils and grease take a long time to break down and their coating effect inhibits the breakdown of other materials. These products also attract insects.
• Pet droppings – may contain disease organisms pathogenic to humans.
• Diseased plants – the heat of the compost pile may not kill the disease organisms or the insects or eggs infecting the plant.
• Weeds – the heat from the pile may not be high enough to deactivate seeds and shoots from weed plants.
• Dishwater – like oils and grease, this will slow down the process.
• Treated wood – wood might be treated with preservatives that contain antimicrobial properties, and can hinder the composting process.
• Colored paper – may contain chemicals undesirable in household compost.

2. Manage Your Environmental Factors

In addition to having a good balance of nitrogen (greens) and carbon (browns), there are four environmental factors to consider when composting. Let your pile breathe Composting is an aerobic process. To work properly, a compost pile needs oxygen. Without oxygen, the process will become anaerobic and will to produce unwanted by-products such as methane gas. To ensure a pile has enough oxygen, it is necessary to physically turn the materials on a regular basis (once or twice every couple of weeks) or provide some form of static aeration (see Holding Bin: Static Pile Composting Method, pg. 5).

Manage your temperature
Heat is one of the by-products of composting. As the process moves along, the pile will heat due to the action of the decomposers (the microorganisms).

Heat indicates that the microbes in the pile are working. If the pile is too small, the heat produced will be lost to the outside air and the process will take a long time to complete. As a general guideline, a pile should be a minimum of one cubic metre in size to sustain the process. If you want to monitor the temperature of your pile you can use a compost thermometer– a good working pile should be around 50o C at the most active phase of the compost process.

If the pile gets too hot – above 60o C – the process will naturally slow down on its own. If you don't have a thermometer, you can feel the heat with your hand or, if that's too messy for you, stick in a metal rod. After ten minutes, pull out the rod and test if it feels warm. In Alberta, winters are far too cold for small backyard composters to be active year-round. While there may be some activity in your compost, it will be minimal and won't produce the heat it will in summer. But keep adding material in winter and come spring, it will decompose more rapidly with a few turns of the pitchfork! Read more about winter composting on pg.

Manage Your Moisture
Moisture is required to supply nutrients to the microorganisms in the process. At the right moisture content, the composting material should feel “as wet as a wrung-out sponge.” Too much moisture will cut off the supply of oxygen to the pile and cause the pile to go anaerobic. Too little moisture will cause the process to take a long time, or may even stop. Remember, the organisms living in the compost need to be "fed and watered!"

Manage Your Particle Size
Particle size is related to the surface area of the materials in the pile. The greater the surface area of the particles available for bacteria to digest, the easier it is for them to break them down, and the faster the process will occur. Most particles should range from one to five cm. Branches and wood chips may be slightly larger, and can range from three to eight cm, but due to their composition, they will take longer to decompose. However, you can always practice "lazy composting", and not chop up material before you add it to the pile. It will eventually decompose, it just may take longer!

Place Your Composter Carefully
The composter should be in a sunny or semi-sunny site. Sunlight will help add heat to the pile. The site should be level and well drained. Most importantly, the pile should be easily accessible. If it is not in a convenient spot, you won't use it.

3. What Type of Composter Should I Use?
There are many types of compost bins. It is important to consider your lawn and gardening needs and the amount of organic wastes you have to compost. Also, are you more comfortable with purchasing or building your compost bin? In reality, composting will occur whether you place materials in a bin or in an open pile.

In an urban setting, however, you are advised to use a bin to reduce chances of the compost being spread by pets, and also to contain any odors, should they arise. In a rural setting, wildlife may stop by, but it doesn't usually present the problem it could cause in a town or city (unless it's bears).

Buying a Composter
Commercially available composting units have the advantage of being durable and efficiently designed. Some commercial composters are made from recycled materials. Depending on your needs and budget, you can choose from a variety of designs. Remember that the compost should be turned on a regular basis, so it is helpful if you can reach into the bin with a pitchfork.

Building a Composter
If you wish to build your own composter, many simple designs are available. The reference books at the end of the article are a good source for information on different designs.

Some Points to Consider:
Consider using scrap materials to lower costs and conserve resources.

• Make the composter about one cubic metre in size. If you are making a multi-sectioned compost bin, each unit should be about one cubic metre in size.
• Allow for drainage to prevent water from collecting at the bottom of the bin.
• Make the composter vermin-proof by lining the sides and bottom of the bin with 1.25 cm (½ inch) wire mesh.

Holding Bin:
Static Pile Composting Method The holding method is suitable for the gardener who is not in a hurry to get finished compost; this compost can take 6 months to 2 years to finish. This method requires less maintenance than the turning method (described later), since the organics are simply layered and left to decompose.

• Place a layer of bulky yard waste, such as straw or twigs, on the bottom of the unit to provide aeration. Moisten the material if it is dry. This layer sets the stage for composting.
• Add any of the organic materials described earlier. Layering materials of different densities will increase air circulation.
• As you add the material, occasionally sprinkle a shovelful of soil on the layers. The microorganisms in the soil help to activate the compost process.
• Check the compost for moisture and add water as necessary. It should be as moist as a damp sponge.

4. Materials
The holding unit can be built as a four-sided, rectangular box that is open at the top and bottom. Build the frame of this unit with 2 x 4s to provide strength. Lightweight strips of wood, such as discarded snow fencing, may be used for the cross braces. Use a construction stapler to attach a fine wire mesh, such as chicken wire, to the sides of the frame. Make a detachable cover for the bin using canvas or polyethylene that will not degrade in the sun. Covering the bin protects the compost from animals and weather.

One Bin: Turning Composting Method
The same bin can be used as described in the Holding Bin: Static Pile Composting Method. As with the holding method, start by placing a layer of bulky or coarse yard waste on the bottom of the unit to provide aeration. Moisten this base material if it is dry. Alternate materials of different densities. Each layer should be about 15 cm (five inches) thick. For example, small chunks of vegetable waste should be layered alternately with uncompacted material, such as plant stalks. Sprinkle in some soil after every 25 to 30 cm (10 to 12 inches) of new material that you add. The natural organisms in the soil aid the composting process. Use a pitchfork to mix the compost every week or two. This allows air to circulate, enhances the decomposition process, and prevents odours from developing. Mix the pile so the outer layers are placed in the centre, and vice versa. This supplies air and new material to the composting organisms.

When adding new material, dig a hole in the pile and bury it under the partially composted material. This will help minimize odours and attraction of flies or other pests. Every time you turn the pile, check the moisture of the materials and add water or drier materials as necessary. Maintain the pile so that it retains a sponge-like dampness. If the compost is slimy looking and smells sulphurous (like rotten eggs), mix in dry yard waste (browns) and leave the cover off to reduce the moisture content. If it becomes too dry, sprinkle water on the pile and mix.

After the first batch of compost has partially decomposed, you will want to start a second batch of compost for adding fresh materials. This will give the first batch time to stabilize and mature. You can fork the first batch of compost into a separate area, and return any unprocessed material to the original bin. Cover the pile to protect it from frost and rain. If the pile gets too wet, it will cool, and slow or even halt the composting process.

Multiple Bin: Turning Composting Method
The turning method of composting using multiple bins is suitable for households with a large amount of material to compost. The recommended unit is a three sided box that is one cubic metre in size, open at the top and bottom, with one or two additional sections beside it. If you don’t know how much compost you will have, start with just one section and attach additional sections as required. Use the same composting method outlined in the “One Bin: Turning Composting Method” section.

Bin Materials
One inexpensive and convenient construction method is to use discarded pallets. Pallets are the right size. They are slatted, which allows for ventilation and they can serve as pre-built walls for the bin. You will need seven pallets for a triplesectioned unit (depending on the pallet size). You will also need a cover for the bin, and stakes to keep the unit secure. You may wish to add planks to the front of the composting sections to further contain the material. If you lash the pallets together with hook and eye assemblies you will be able to disassemble the bin and move it easily. Or, if you prefer, use nails or screws to fasten the boards or pallets together.

Helpful Hints

Maintenance

• Crush or shred bulky material to speed up decomposition.
• If the compost is too cold, add materials, such as grass clippings, that are high in nitrogen. Add new composting material if the pile is only warm in the centre. A one-cubic metre compost pile is ideal. Consult a gardening or composting book to fine-tune the process.
• Don’t let the pile get too wet. Cover the pile to help control moisture from precipitation or frost.
• If it becomes too wet or slimy, the pile may begin to smell sulphurous (like rotten eggs). Simply turn it and add new brown material.
• If the pile begins to smell sharp, like ammonia, it means the nitrogen level is too high. Mix in some brown material to correct this problem.
• If your compost pile has too much carbon (browns), the pile will not heat quickly and the composting process will be very slow. Add nitrogen-rich materials (greens) to help speed up the process.
• Eggshells do not fully decompose in the composting process; it is normal to see eggshells in finished compost.
• If you live in bear country, take usual bear precautions.
• To prevent odours, turn the pile every week or two. This provides the composting material with sufficient air. It is also helpful to cover the pile with a layer of browns to help decrease odour.

In Winter
Unprocessed compost that is left at the end of summer can be composted the following spring; just let it freeze in the compost bin. While composting comes to a halt in Alberta winters, that doesn’t mean that you have to throw away kitchen scraps. These can be safely left to freeze outside in a sealed garbage bin or, directly in a compost pile for the winter. In the fall, if you have many leaves and no separate bin for them, just place them in a contained area and shred them with a weed trimmer or lawn mower. While shredding isn't necessary, it creates more surface area, speeding decomposition once added to the compost pile.

When you start again in the spring, intersperse layers of the old, "unprocessed" material with new material. You may want to speed up the decomposition of leaves by adding high nitrogen materials, the 'greens.'

Vermicomposting - composting using worms - is another way of dealing with organic waste during the winter, or year-round in an apartnment, condominium or office setting. You can find more information about vermicomposting in the “Taking Action Through Vermicomposting to Reduce Kitchen Waste” booklet.

Finishing Up
Finished compost is dark, lightweight and earthy-smelling. It should be difficult to recognize most of the original material. Finished compost – even when it has been recently turned – will be cold to the touch. Remove the finished compost and return any undecomposed materials, along with any large chunks, to the bin for processing. Small chunks of vegetation in the compost can be dug into your garden. But be careful, if you apply unfinished compost to your garden, it could rob your garden of necessary nutrients, as the energy will go to further decompose your compost, and byproducts of the composting process may do more harm than good to your garden seeds and plants.

To ensure your compost is finished, let it sit over the winter months. Come spring, give it a few turns to aerate it, and it should be ready for you to dig into your spring plantings. Screening the Compost Compost may be screened to separate the finished compost from some of the bulkier materials in the pile. A simple screen can be constructed out of a wooden frame and chicken wire or other similar wire. This screen can be placed on a wheelbarrow, and the compost spread over the screen. Bulkier material will stay on top of the screen and can be mixed back into the compost pile for further decomposition.

Using your Compost
Compost can be used in numerous ways around your home. The finished product can be mixed in the soil, used as mulch, or thinly applied to your lawn to add nutrients. The amount you use in your garden can vary; a layer of 2 to 5 cm (¾" to 2") of compost to the soil every couple of years will provide long term benefits for plant growth. Always remember that compost is not a replacement for soil, and plants may have difficulties growing in too much compost.

Do not plant in 100% compost. A good ratio is 1/3 compost to 2/3 soil.

For the entire article, please read the PDF below.